I keep thinking I will run out of things to say, but the world keeps being so interesting.
Yesterday Bettina, Omar & I had discussed heading into nearby Cambria for breakfast. We managed to all wake similarly early and I, the latest sleeper (up at 7:30 or so) had to catch up, meeting up with the two of them, plus Don, who we found at a coffee shop in Cambria, updating his blog. Really nice breakfast, I had french toast, something I can’t easily make for myself out here on the road. These touring friendships are funny. You always know that this could be the last time you see these people. But you also know you share this weird bond, this uncommon interest. Telling them I’m headed from Seattle to San Diego (as I find I usually sum up the trip, it’s so much more definite than “Canada to Mexico”, so much easier for people to grasp) elicits more “yeah neat” than “wow that’s amazing!”
After breakfast it was an easy day for me, something like 50 miles. I stopped often, first in Cayucos. If was the first actual population center–6000 or so–I’d seen in days. I walked out along the fishing pier, then met a really nice couple I found admiring Sweet Liza Jane. Lots of questions, pretty deep knowledge of bicycles and touring, obviously someone who’d done some long rides. Then a nice little chat with Margaret from there on the beach, though the reception was still so poor that the connection kept dropping out.
Cayucos had a nice little sweet shop where I stopped for today’s ice cream, an amazing combination of strawberry and honey-lavender gelatos. Funny how honey-lavender is still a flavor with such strong connotation, a happy time & place taste.
It wasn’t much longer ’til Morro Bay. I stopped on the waterfront for the views but stayed for the seafood–a long line marked what I overheard others describing as the best seafood in town. I had the special of the day, a swordfish sandwich & chips, it was delicious.
The on to San Luis Obispo. The highway takes quite a turn inland and the temperature soared, it was in the 90’s there. I passed more agricultural fields on the way, several full of flowers, giant swaths of color.
In San Luis Obispo I toured the old mission, then found a brewpub right on the creek that was obviously brewing up something in the kettles right there in the middle of the pub, it smelled so good. I had a salad–so nice to have vegetables again–and some of their very tasty IPA.
With so many side trips it was another race against the sun to make it to this campsite by sunset. I barely did it, but upset to learn that they don’t actually have a hiker-biker site here. Had to pay $25 for a solo tent site instead of the usual $5. The ranger said the next hiker-biker site south of here is in Santa Barbara, easily an hour’s drive from here. No way.
I got the tent set up & took off for the beach, but missed sunset. Still, I got to walk out on the very long, shallow beach in the glow of twilight. Ocean covered my ankles, yet the waves went another 30 feet towards shore. Nice to have decent phone reception again, got in a lovely long chat with Julianne.
Though very expensive (by recent experience) this campground does at least have electrical sockets in the bathrooms.
The landscape changes, there’s palm trees and sand on the roads and this heat and something about the light. Still beautiful, in such a different way.